Eboka.Info

Eboka Science => Eboka Preparations & Extractions => Topic started by: Calaquendi on September 17, 2009, 10:22:40 AM

Title: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga - (Now w/pics)
Post by: Calaquendi on September 17, 2009, 10:22:40 AM
**This is for research purposes only**

This is a safe and effective measure to collect all the essential alkaloids from the plant material without having to consume pure root-bark. Please take care using such a procedure. This will yield an 'acetate' salt, total-alkaloid from Tabernanthe iboga.

~Materials~

~Procedure~

Grind root bark into fine powder.
(http://forums.mycotopia.net/attachments/botanicals-cactus-misc-entheogens-psychedelics/126952d1241817820t-achtwans-iboga-extraction-2-0-allkamra-478.jpg)

Cover with vinegar
(http://forums.mycotopia.net/attachments/botanicals-cactus-misc-entheogens-psychedelics/126953d1241817919t-achtwans-iboga-extraction-2-0-allkamra-482.jpg)

Simmer on low heat for 60 - 90 min (do not boil).

Filter through cloth - collect solution.

(http://forums.mycotopia.net/attachments/botanicals-cactus-misc-entheogens-psychedelics/126954d1241817919t-achtwans-iboga-extraction-2-0-allkamra-486.jpg)

(http://forums.mycotopia.net/attachments/botanicals-cactus-misc-entheogens-psychedelics/126955d1241817919t-achtwans-iboga-extraction-2-0-allkamra-492.jpg)

Return plant material to pan and recover it with vinegar.

Repeat cook down 3 times.

Collect cloth filtered solution and filter through paper (coffee) filter
(http://forums.mycotopia.net/attachments/botanicals-cactus-misc-entheogens-psychedelics/126956d1241818029t-achtwans-iboga-extraction-2-0-allkamra-494.jpg)

Preheat oven to 200F (ibogaine melting point is 300F).

Pour solution into glass baking dish.
(http://forums.mycotopia.net/attachments/botanicals-cactus-misc-entheogens-psychedelics/126957d1241818029t-achtwans-iboga-extraction-2-0-allkamra-522.jpg)

Evaporate liquid in oven (leave oven door ajar) until dry.
(http://forums.mycotopia.net/attachments/botanicals-cactus-misc-entheogens-psychedelics/126958d1241818029t-achtwans-iboga-extraction-2-0-allkamra-523.jpg)

(http://forums.mycotopia.net/attachments/botanicals-cactus-misc-entheogens-psychedelics/126959d1241818381t-achtwans-iboga-extraction-2-0-allkamra-528.jpg)

Scrape residual with razor.

Weigh and load into gelcaps. Pray...

Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga
Post by: x on September 17, 2009, 03:05:42 PM
Thanks again for this. I tell ya, the pics helped me tremendously. Anticipating an expanded version! You rock, Cal.
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga
Post by: Psychenaut on October 06, 2009, 11:04:59 PM
There are methods of reconstituting the alkaloids back into a small quantity of the root back (indra extract method), this is supposed to make the alkaloid more stable if you wish to hold onto it for more than a few weeks.  Ibogaine seems to like to bond to other iboga alkaloids and make weird shit, I'm wondering if this happens in old acidic extractions and this is why I've gotten repeated headaches from some extracts that I'm guessing have sat around for some time.
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga
Post by: Calaquendi on October 22, 2009, 03:48:41 PM
Here is a link to some extraction techniques and information for T.iboga and V.africana :

http://www.drugs-forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=70658

most of this looks complex and not very user-friendly-however if anyone here has the skill to decipher any of it in lay terms I'm all ears...
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga
Post by: Eon T McKnight on October 30, 2009, 03:55:09 AM
There is one really important thing I need to know:  are the alkaloids in the root bark acidic (pH < 7) or alkaline (basic,  pH > 7)?

Which it is, I believe, is based upon the pH of the soil in which it grows.  For mimosa root bark, the Brazilian soil is probably acidic, the tryptamine is in an acid-salt form (alkaloid + tannic acid).  Adding acid to solubilize the alkaloids in mimosa is unnecessary.

However, it appears that the soil where Eboka grows is alkaline (my guess from photos) which would result in alkaloids in a free base form.  ((( this is just my theory, someone somewhere knows the real story, I'll bet.)))

Only by measuring the pH of a root bark solution can the appropriate solvent(s) and amount of acid or base be determined.

What is needed:  pH paper or meter; distilled H2O; (1) teaspoon of powdered root bark.

1.  test H2O to make sure pH = 7
2.  heat 150 ml H2O to boiling
3.  slowly add root bark (to prevent boil-over)
4.  stir occasionally until solution is at room temp.  Let stand.
5.  hopefully, powder will mostly settle to bottom soon and you can measure the pH of a fairly clear liquid.

Or, you can just send me a kilo or two of primo bark...  (hear me barking?) (arf arf)

My philosophy of making home-cooked TA extracts:  use only non-toxic, readily available substances (chemicals);  use as few of them as possible;  use as little heat as possible.

Of course, if you already know the answer to my question, you could just say so...

You can send comments & info to my email to keep the list clean, if you wish:  McKnight@ZettaCat.com

Guerrilla NeuroPharmacology ! ! !

~e

ANYONE w/ a high speed link and bittorrent?  There appears to be a gigantic trove (over 4 GB) of Eboka info here:

     http://www.drugs-forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=71455&highlight=iboga

WHEW ! ! !  Lottsa info on that link, friend Cal.

Having done a coupla 2 - 3 extractions meself, I am so glad you asked for comments.   **** BIGASS DISCLAIMER  --  this is theoretical only, I have never tried this recipe w/ Eboka *****

The recipe below should work well for kitchen chemists w/ no lab experience.  Using ETOH is great because it filters and evaporates MUCH easier & faster that just H2O.  The whole thing could be done with only H2O with additional time and labor.

eon

PS  --  I keep finding mistakes/omissions.  It's late.  Yawn!  Please point out remaining goofs to me tomorrow...   ~e

"Put the rootbark into a large clean jar and add approx half a 70cl {think he means 700ml} bottle of vodka, two cups of red wine and the juice of a lemon. Some users like to also add a half-teaspoon of vinegar."

About 500 ml Vodka (ETOH + H2O) would probably be required for 28 g (1 oz.) of powdered root bark.  There should be as much clear ETOH on top as sediment + ETOH in the bottom layer.

I would forget the wine and lemon.

Only 1 source of acid (H+) is needed.  Vinegar is my favorite because it is standardized and it will evaporate when fully dried.  The question is "How much is necessary?"

If you have pH papers, you want a pH around 4.

W/o pH papers, it is necessary to estimate.  For a really good estimate you need to know the approximate weights of ALL alkaloids in the bark, get their molecular weights, and compute the number of moles.  OUCH!  Then add ~10% excess moles of vinegar.  DOUBLE OUCH!!

Easier to go out and buy pH papers...

Seat-of-the-pants?  Add 5ml (1 tsp) vinegar to each 30 grams of bark. Shake or stir like crazy.  Taste.  If it tastes sour-bitter like vinegar it should be good.  If it just tastes bitter (even though it smells like vinegar) you need to add more vinegar.  We want a slightly acidic solution, which should taste distinctly sour.

"Shake vigorously and then leave to stand for one week, shaking occasionally. "

If powdered bark is used, 2 days should be plenty (longer doesn't hurt).  If powdered bark in ETOH is VERY CAREFULLY heated, only 1 hour should be necessary (see crockpot below).

After extracting the alkaloids into the ETOH, taste again.  If the sour taste is gone, add more vinegar and repeat extraction.

Filter the solution now, not after it has been reduced!  If the solution is not real gunky (a highly technical term) you can decant and filter through a coffee filter.  Add some fresh ETOH to the root (make a slurry) and filter again.  Combine.

"After one week has passed, empty the contents into a bowl or pan and place gently over boiling water. DO NOT DO THIS CLOSE TO A NAKED FLAME AS ALCOHOL IS HIGHLY FLAMMABLE. ENSURE THE AREA IS WELL VENTILATED. Alcohol boils at around 80 degrees centigrade, (as opposed to water which boils at 100). "

The trusty crockpot is the thing to use.  Fill the bottom w/ hot water, put a good fitting glass baking dish instead of the lid on top, pour extract into the dish.

"When the alcohol has boiled gently away, remove the bowl and strain the contents through cloth. "

It would be impossible to filter the contents if ALL the ETOH & H2O (Vodka is 60% H2O) has boiled away.  Better to filter the less concentrated solution anyway (see above).

Here, you need to decide if you want a tincture (~20% ETOH) or an aqueous extract (mainly H2O  --  you'll never get ALL the ETOH out) or a solid.  Since the ETOH will evaporate faster at first, reducing the solution by half should give you ~20%.  Such a tincture is stable and will not allow micro-organisms to grow, even for long periods at room temperature.

Reducing further will give a more highly concentrated extract with less ETOH.

Reducing CAREFULLY to dryness (probably a tarry consistency) will yeild an unrefined Total Alkaloid (TA) extract.  Please note: the extract CAN BE BURNED at temperatures less than boiling H20 if left on the heat too long.  No place for ADD!

The advantage to a dried extract is that it can be weighed and doses standardized.  Plus, it (and the tincture) can be kept indefinitely in the freezer.

"(The solid that remains should no longer have the bitter taste it did prior to beginning the extraction. If it does, mix everything back together and return it to the jar for another week. Then repeat the above.)  Assuming that the solid is not now distinctly bitter, discard it and allow the liquid that remains after straining to stand for about 12 hours.  The extract is now ready for consumption.

"Storage - It is recommended you consume the extract within a few days of making it. However, if necessary, it can be stored for about 2 - 3 weeks in a domestic refrigerator. After this period it will begin to brew, and the composition will be altered. Smelling the extract will tell you if it's started to deteriorate."

Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga
Post by: Calaquendi on October 30, 2009, 02:27:05 PM
Hey McKnight!

Great links and information...

As my own internet connection is wishy-washy right this minute, I am afraid I have to be brief - but I promise to post more later.

Your question about the pH of the naturally occurring alkaloids is very interesting. I was under the impression that most if not all alkaloids are basic in nature, hence the word 'alkaloid' coming from 'alkaline'??..http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alkaloid - but how could this be, some plants are highly acidic so you can do fairly easy alkaline extractions on them  ???

Obviously I'm no chemist...probably be in jail if I was!!!  ;D But I do have years of experience extracting alks from plant sources, in fact before we came up with the acetic acid 'tek' we tried an STB (Straight -to -Base) on a small portion of RB...this did nothing, at least at first. We left it sitting in solution for some time (days, weeks?) kinda forgot about it, but when we looked again, there were what appeared to be crystals forming in the NP solvent layer (naptha). Too little material to gauge anything from, but enough of 'something' to pique interest. Root Bark is expensive not to mention hard to come by, so this 'method' will be hard to reproduce, and anyway this (even if it worked) would yield a free-base material that I've never worked with...The bark itself is almost certainly acidic, not sure how this effects the extraction of the alks, or even what pH the alks are naturally occurring. Acids are sour to taste and once you've tasted many many acids you can pretty much tell what is and is not. I realize this is the crudest of the crude so far as methods go, but in lieu of having a GC/MS in my basement I'll have to settle for the 'old ways' and some litmus paper...

The last time we made the extract from iboga, we diluted the vinegar, which was standardized at 5% acidity, with the same amount of h2o and the outcome was identical. Technically I think just 'cooking' the bark in water would yield similar results. I am not sure. If this is the case, I suppose these alkaloids exist in salt form...when you do an A/B (acid-base) extraction on something, it is to convert the salts to free base...this would also indicate that the DMT in mimosa exists in salted form naturally..so 'alkaloid' here seems almost misleading??

Mimosa hostilis (Tenuiflora) is certainly acidic, so you can just hit the powdered bark with alkaline water and add np solvent to yield a pretty pure DMT from -a free base of course. Having ingested this with caapi for ayahuasca sessions, I will say here that I much prefer the naturally occurring form of alkaloid. Maybe you can help to clear some of this up hehe I hate to answer questions with a question, but here I have only my experience as a guide. Basement shaman trade ideas all the time and I think it is as much an art as a science, not meaning that the science shouldn't be reckoned in...

Well I've just proof read this and I hate to dump a bunch of text I've worked on, so I'm keeping this load of crap, if anything, perhaps you are amused...I like the tek you have at the end of your post, there's an alcohol extraction that was popularized in I think the 80's (?) that yields a liquid - called "Indra"(??) - seems pretty damned gross...Any way, when I get to my buddies I'll steal highspeed and be able to more accurately peruse your post...keep up the good work my friend, we're all in this together!!
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga
Post by: Eon T McKnight on October 30, 2009, 08:26:33 PM
Cal!  Compadre!!

Neither of us are chemists.  It appears that I might know a little more about the nuts and bolts than you.  Basically, we just know enough to be dangerous, which is not all bad.  I hear women like the dangerous, outlaw types like us.  ;)  (2 bad it ain't true...   )  :( 

FIRST AND FOREMOST:  Call upon your mighty powers of belief, and please believe me, we NEED to know the pH of an aqueous bark solution.  Not necessarily to get all the alks out, but get them out quick and easy with minimal crap (another scientific term) along with the Good Stuff (GS).

OK, now on to Chem 101.

Alkaloids are alkaline when in their free-base state.  I.e. free-base alkaloids are alkaline/basic -and- have a net positive charge -and- a ph > 7.

What a free-base looks like is     (alkaloid)-OH

Add acid (e.g. HCl) to an alkaloid and the H+ Hydrogen cation ( +proton) from the acid combines with the OH- hydroxy anion ( - ) like the North and South poles of a magnet (not really, but sorta) leaving the acid anion (CL-) attached to the alkaloid.  (Which is no longer an alkaline free-base alkaloid, it is now an "acid salt".)  PHEW!

When you add an acid to an alkaloid, you get an "acid salt"  (alkaloid)-Cl  -and-  a net negative charge  -and-  pH < 7.

The free-base alkaloids are typically non-polar and do not have oppositely charged 'ends' (geometrically speaking) and are soluble in non-polar solvents like ether and naphtha.

Due to the negative charge of the anion (Cl, e.g.) the acid salt has polarity, (sort of like a bar magnet) with positive and negative ends.  Acid salts and other polar compounds are soluble in polar solvents, such as water.

That's why you keep you cocaine-HCl dry and your crak craks (boiling, undesolved water).  They now teach that to High School Chem students, don't they?  (snicker)

The DMT in mimosa is present as an acid salt "(DMT)-tannic acid" and can be extracted as-is with water (or vodka).  (see DMT-nexus.com if you don't believe yer buddy Eon.  Try searching for "water extract".)

Bear in mind that there is a pseudo-infinite number of ways to skin a cat.  My objective is high efficiency, low cost, easy to get chems, simple procedure and CLEAN product.  Mr Clean would be so proud!

If Eboka is the same as mimosa, no acid or base would be needed to get it into ETOH.  Hence, less crap in the final product.  Unfortunately, I doubt that is the case.

Since acid salts are more stable and more quickly absorbed (less icky gunk in sweetie's tummy to make upchuck) we will want to end up with a 'salt'.

If I'm going to spend hours writing this up, I want to be darn sure I got it right.  ! ! ! AND ! ! !    Anyone using the tek will get the absolutely sweetest tasting results possible.  Need to measure that pH!  It could take a very long time to track it down on the web.

~e
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga
Post by: Calaquendi on October 30, 2009, 08:52:31 PM
My good man...

Thanks for the tutorial, you are now stuck in the job...you have only yourself to blame.  ;)

Concise explanations, I would really like to hear more!

So far, I am only proficient in some A/B, STB...and various tea and tar methods (mimosa, other DMT plants, cactus, yage) along with the crude TA at the top of this thread...

It would seem to me that actually reading the entire thread has it's benefits. That way when when one does a cursory glance and then replies (like I did) he doesn't eat his sneakers hehe..

Glad to have your advice and interest! That's what it's all about!!
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga
Post by: Eon T McKnight on October 30, 2009, 10:13:25 PM
Oh, gee whiz, there's the bell...

OK class, and you especially Calvin, there WILL be a test on Monday!

Now, I want you all to go home this weekend and read chapters 1 - 36 in your text books!

This test will count on your final grade!

And, NO, eating cactus does NOT count as an excuse!

D I S S S S M I S S E D ! ! !

What?

CLASS!

CLASSS ! ! !

NO.  Absolutely NOT!  Halloween is NOT a Holiday!
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga
Post by: Calaquendi on October 30, 2009, 10:18:51 PM
haha it is for me... ;D

"My body is a temple" - Abe
"Well now it's an amusement park" - Hellboy
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga
Post by: x on October 31, 2009, 07:45:51 PM
Keep it coming, dangerous gents.

This is not my forte, and never will be (too many other things to study!!!), but I am glad to count hobbyist chemists among my friends! Please send me all your extra ibogaine. You can use the Mexican address.
 ;)
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga
Post by: Eon T McKnight on November 02, 2009, 11:17:46 AM
****   CAUTION    ****    CAUTION    ****    CAUTION    ****

DO NOT TRY COMBINING EBOKA TA EXTRACT WITH AN MAOI ! ! !

Unless and until you know ALL of the compounds present in the TA extract.

Reason being that a TA extract MIGHT contain tyramine or some other toxic amine normally deactivated by MAO.  I have been unable as yet to ascertain a complete list of compounds present in Eboka root bark.  Until an accurate list of compounds is discovered, the safe and wise approach is to assume the worst.

Links or other info re:  scientific papers listing ALL compounds, not just alkaloids, in Tabernanthe iboga will be appreciated.

~eon
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga
Post by: x on November 03, 2009, 07:47:20 PM
A small thing: I have read (somewhere) that heat is uneccesary for the vinegar extraction, yet letting sit for a week seems would cause bacterial growth.
Any thoughts?

Tia to the maxx
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga
Post by: Calaquendi on November 06, 2009, 02:18:36 PM
You read correct information Tia...heat is only used to expedite the process - the extraction can be done in hours versus days or even weeks. Since many people come to iboga tail-in-hand, my guess is that they have feelings similar to my own : "let's get this going"

As for bacterial growth - I really dunno, that's a good question. Certainly possible, maybe even likely...probably probable...

I personally would not mess around with a soak in water/acid. Only way I'd be comfortable is steeping it in alcohol (per other extraction 'teks') and I am not the go to guy for directions there... ???
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga
Post by: x on November 06, 2009, 04:14:44 PM
Thanks, brothermine.  :D
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga
Post by: Eon T McKnight on November 09, 2009, 11:22:35 PM
Dearest Tia,

Ever made pickles?  Vinegar inhibits the growth of micro-organisims, but only when sufficiently strong/concentrated.  Even then, it is recommended to boil (or at least par-boil) the items to be pickled unless you are going for refrigerator pickles.

Chemists and cooks share many things.

ETOH also inhibits such growth, without boiling, when at about 15% or better.  IPOH works great, too, and is not much more toxic than ETOH (per conversation w/ toxicologist) with less likelyhood of disappearing down the chef's throat.

Until someone, somewhere can tell me the pH of an aqueous root bark solution, there is not a whole lot more dependable info I can add...

Yer Pal,

Chef Eon
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga
Post by: x on November 11, 2009, 11:48:03 AM
Thanks for that, Eon. I will now go look up 'IPOH'. That's one I'm not familiar with.


I recently spoke with someone who doesn't heat the RB/vinegar solution at all, but just gives a good hour soak four times with fresh vinegar, then adds heat only to reduce the volume of vinegar before basifying with non sudsing janitorial grade ammonia. Sounds simple and effective. Go kitchen witches!

Tia
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga
Post by: Eon T McKnight on November 11, 2009, 04:01:47 PM
My apologies.  IPOH  ==  IsoPropyl alcohol  ==   Isopropanol  ==  rubbing alcohol.  It can be purchased as 91% at Walmart and Walgreen, the two Wallies.  It's effective, cheap and can be made anhydrous simply by adding non-iodized table salt.

Why did your acquaintance basify the solution???  Acid salts are more easily absorbed in the gut.  Freebase alkaloids take longer to dissolve and be absorbed and, to me, are more often associated with nausea.  Also, acid salts are less likely to be affected by the changeable environment of the gut, and hence they are more predictable.

The common (at least among us uncommon types) reason to basify an alkaloid is to separate it by dissolving in an non polar solvent or for smoking purposes (c.f. crak).

IF (that's a BIG IF) the root bark alkaloids are naturally acid salts, no vinegar or any other acid would be required to extract the alkaloids.  Nor would ammonia be necessary.  Just water.  Or water + alcohol for easier filtering and evaporation.

IF (another BIG IF) the alkaloids are naturally in their freebase state, they could be very easily extracted with dry IPOH and then turned into acid salts with vinegar.  You would then have ibogaine acetate (similar to ibogaine HCl).

Can you acquaintance tell us what the pH of an aqueous root bark solution is?

~eonisphere
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga
Post by: x on November 11, 2009, 06:59:16 PM
An aqueous solution, I have no idea. I don't know that the active bits of the RB are even water soluble.

Basify to create a TA that lasts many many months, very stable. This is what I have heard.

Please google the teks of Chris Jenks. They are elaborate, and for me, require a dictionary for some parts (and that's actually sayin' sumthin'). You may have your answers there, written by one with far more tekkie knowledge than this girl!
If you do read theses teks, and are feeling magnanimous, I'd love a translation!!!

Good to 'see' you back, Eon.
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga
Post by: Eon T McKnight on November 12, 2009, 10:02:37 PM
I had never really left, just couldn't reach the keyboard from 100 miles away.  I was still here in spirit, though...

While most of the root bark will not dissolve, enough ions (not eons) will be in solution to get an initial pH measurement.  Even elemental lead can be dissolved  --  very very slightly  -- in water.

While some freebase alkaloids are very stable, the acid salts are, without any exception known to myself, more stable.  They are more resistant to change over time, to other chemicals and to heat.  Since acid salts are often hydrophilic (water loving) and hygroscopic (water attracting, absorbing (sukkin'?)) and freebases are usually hydrophobic (don't mix w/ water, not rabid  ;D ) unprotected/unshielded acid salt alkaloids will often absorb water, sometimes to the point of becoming gooey.  The freebases will not be similarly affected by humidity.

So, in some conditions, a freebase will be more desirable (e.g. your backpack in the middle of the rainforest).  All the scientists/doctors will use the HCl because it is easier to purify and in protected lab-type environments, more stable than the freebase.

To prove this to yourself, take one gram cocaine HCl and one gram freebase cocaine (crak).  Expose both on a plate and take into the bathroom.  Take a very long very hot shower with the door closed.  Observe.  The coke HCl will be a clump of goo while the crak is still solid.  If the crak has disappeared, repeat experiment, but this time, do NOT take a crak pipe into the bathroom.   ;)

Practically speaking, if sealed properly  --  airtight, no light, no moisture  --  and put into a freezer, both freebase and acid salt alkaloids will usually last for years.  That is (ahem) if they don't 'evaporate' first, as I have often observed.  I kept some harmaline freebase in the freezer for 10 years without apparent loss of potency.

Will google "chris jenks" and ibogaine.  Thanks for the lead!

Yer benighted pal,

eon
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga
Post by: Eon T McKnight on November 16, 2009, 10:03:47 PM
After considerable searching on the web, it does not appear that T. iboga contains tyramine.  So my warning re: MAOIs and Eboka TA were probably unnecessary.  However, I am in the process of formulating a list of all known T. iboga compounds which I will both google and send to a pharmacologist with considerable experience in toxicology and chemistry before proclaiming that combination possibly safe.  I would feel very very badly indeed were someone to try mixing an MAOI w/ TA or ibogaine with bad results based upon something I ignorantly and carelessly said.  What I said was 'brainstorming' and NOT a recommendation!

Based upon the review of a number of articles on the web, it certainly appears that ibogaine exists in its freebase form in the natural, untreated root bark  --  though I have not seen a statement precisely to that effect.  That conclusion is drawn based upon the use of non-polar solvents in the first step of several extraction teks or the addition of acid where water is used as a solvent.

Hence, ethanol (ETOH), isopropanol (IPOH), acetone or petroleum ether (naphtha) should be suitable for the first step in the process without adding any acid or base.  The benefit in using such solvents is ease of filtration and evaporation.

More to come, in a while...

Following are three links to Eboka chemistry.  The first is a bibliography provided by Dr. C.W. Jenks.  The second two are links to his work.  Profound thanks to Dr. Jenks!

     http://www.puzzlepiece.org/ibogaine/literature/iborefs.html
     http://puzzlepiece.org/ibogaine/literature/jenks2002.pdf
     http://puzzlepiece.org/ibogaine/literature/ibogaine_extraction_manual.pdf

Guerrilla NeuroPharmacology!         ~ET
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga - (Now w/pics)
Post by: Calaquendi on January 05, 2010, 02:55:25 AM
Bump - pics at last  ;)
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga - (Now w/pics)
Post by: achtwan on January 23, 2010, 02:49:42 PM
phew...just my gut talkin,but i have an intuition that iboga and mao would be a potentialy fatal combo.
a very complex molecule by itself.
i know i would not have the balls to consider that one,
but it would be good to have some empirical data on the subject.
i should burn one and have a looksy around...
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga - (Now w/pics)
Post by: GratefulDad on January 24, 2010, 06:48:34 AM
The Extraction:

What you need: Plain white distilled vinegar, a stainless steel, ceramic, HDPE, or non-reactive container, janitorial strength (10%) non-sudsy ammonia, distilled water, a funnel, coffee filters, old t-shirt, and the iboga bark.

Optional for added purity: Acetone, muriatic acid (28-31% HCl), and Everclear  (95% pure ethanol).

1: Take the bark, and make sure it's as fine of a powder as possible.

2: Add enough vinegar to thoroughly cover the bark. A good measurement for the vinegar is about 5 times the amount (volume) of vinegar to the weight of bark.

In this instance 40g of bark times 5 would be about 200 mls of vinegar per soak. One may need slightly more in the first couple extractions to thoroughly cover the bark, and excess can be used safely, however it will lengthen the time of filtering later, so try and keep the volumes minimal.

3: The bark can be stirred occasionally, and left to sit for at least one hour.

Adding heat makes the bark harder to filter, and isn't necessary.

4: After an hour has passed, one needs to filter the bark from the vinegar with a cloth t-shirt. Squeeze out the bark to gather all the vinegar and save this. The bark is then returned to the container for another soak. This should be done 4 times to be sure to get out all the alkaloids.

5: While letting the bark soak again, as in the previous steps, Filter the collected vinegar through coffee filters.

This can take a long time to filter, since the coffee filters clog easily, and may need to be replaced often. Have patience though. If you can leave it sitting in the funnel, with a filter, the juice will eventually pass through. This filtering isn't 100% necessary but it will remove all the fine plant particles from the solution, so the initial extraction will come out much cleaner, so it's a good idea.

6: Once all the vinegar has been collected and filtered through a coffee filter, you have two options.

The first would be to evaporate the vinegar a bit, by using low heat and a fan. Under boiling is fine to reduce the vinegar, and will make it easier to deal with less liquid. You don't want to evaporate it to thickness though, just enough to make it easy to work with in a smaller container. The second option is to skip the evaporation and proceed directly to the next step.

7: Once you have all your vinegar collected, and evaporated a good bit, if you like, you are ready to add the ammonia. You can slowly pour ammonia into the vinegar, to make it basic. pH  papers aren't needed, but if used, just make sure the pH  is above 9-10.

As you add the ammonia, the solution will heat slightly, and you will see cloudy precipitate forming. You can add more ammonia, to be sure, as too much won't hurt, it will just add to the amount of solution that needs to be filtered, which can take awhile.

8: Now, if left to settle, the precipitate (freebase total alkaloids) will sink to the bottom of the container. The majority of the clear solution at the top can be siphoned off, and filtered to be sure no precipitate is in it.

If it looks clear, not cloudy, though, all the precipitate should have sunken to the bottom. By removing a large portion of the upper clear (tea color) water, this will allow you to have much less solution to filter out your alkaloids. You can save everything you siphoned off and add more ammonia later, to be sure you got out all the freebase alkaloids.

9: Now you can filter the muddy solution through coffee filters again.

Filtering this can take a good bit as the precipitate begins to clog the filter, but again, be patient, as the solution will eventually pass through the filter completely. This may take overnight, so don't worry if it takes a long time. Once you have filtered the solution, you can set aside the clear tea colored water for later, to add more ammonia, and be sure you collected all the precipitate.

10: You should now have a coffee filter with all the brown freebase precipitate stuck to it. You should then add a liberal amount of distilled water to the filter in the funnel. You will thoroughly rinse the precipitate with the distilled water to wash away any extra impurities.

Again, waiting for the water to pass through the alkaloid coated coffee filter may take awhile, so just have patience.

11: This precipitate can then be placed in front of a fan with a warm air current, away from UV light, and left to dry.

This is now your crude freebase total alkaloid extract. This can be capped when dry and used as is, and should be much cleaner than the simple vinegar extraction. However, for those of us that want it much more pure, there are two options.

First option:

1: Take the filter with the dried crusty precipitate and break up the filtrate to a fine powder. You can use the same filter, or take a new one and place it in a funnel that is plugged (SWIM  uses a two liter bottle with the bottom cut off for a funnel, so capping the opening can seal it, but a finger may be used). Add the filtrate to the plugged funnel then add vinegar.

2: Let the vinegar sit, maybe stir it around a bit in the filter, then let it drain through, and save the vinegar.

3: You can repeat with fresh vinegar another time, and collect all the vinegar.

4: Add ammonia to the vinegar again, to precipitate the alkaloids, which should be even cleaner this time.

5: Re-filter out all the alkaloids, and rinse with plain cold distilled water, then allow to dry completely in front of a fan.

This can now be used as is and should be even cleaner.


Second (more involved) option:

Okay so you have your brown precipitate in your coffee filter, now dried up, from the first portion of the extraction.

1: You now, take your acetone, and soak the filter with it. You can stir around the precipitate in the filter, and wash two or three times with acetone. The filter should contain any bark crud that got through, and any other impurities.

This will remove the alkaloids from the solid filtrate, since the freebase is soluble in acetone.

2: Take your muriatic acid, and add it very slowly, to the acetone. You must do this dropwise, and watch as the precipitate forms.

Adding too much can start to redissolve the ibogaine. You can add a few drops at a time, and watch as the precipitate forms. When it stops forming, you can place this into the fridge, to chill for a few hours, before filtering, and this will increase the yield. You can add more acid a second time to the acetone after filtering the first precipitate to be sure you got it all.

3: Filter out the ibogaine HCl.

This is nearly pure ibogaine HCl, but there may be a bit left in the acetone, and all the other alkaloids will also be in the acetone. You can evaporate some of the acetone with a fan and low heat, then treat it with the muriatic acid again, and harvest any more crystals of ibogaine HCl that precipitate. Filter it out as well and add it to the first filtrate.

4: If you would like pure ibogaine HCl, without the other alkaloids, you can take the ibogaine HCl crystals, and dissolve it in boiling ethanol.

The boiling ethanol should be added dropwise, just until all the ibogaine HCl has dissolved.

5: This ethanol solution is then left to cool in the fridge and the ibogaine will recrystallize.

This will make the ibogaine HCl form much more pure crystals and can remove some of the ibogamine/ibogaline if still present in the precipitate. It is not necessary unless going for 98%+ purity, and repeated recrystallizations can yield very pure ibogaine HCl, but can cost a bit of yield.

When this is dry, it is ready to take.

6: For those who want to recover all the alkaloids, so they can take a complete total alkaloid extract of high purity, they should take the acetone that they salted out the ibogaine HCl, and evaporate it in front of a fan with warm air current.

The resulting leftover alkaloids will be an unstable oil.

7: Dissolve this oil in distilled water.

8: Add ammonia to this water with the oil dissolved into it.

You will again see the freebase residual alkaloids precipitate out of the water/ammonia solution.

9: Filter out the freebase alkaloids, and rinse again thoroughly with distilled water.

10: Let the freebase residual alkaloids dry completely.

You can then add your freebase residual alkaloids to your ibogaine HCl, and capsulize it. Freebases will be converted to the HCl salts in your stomach, so turning them into the HCl salt before ingesting is unnecessary.


So there you have it folks. If you want a very pure extract in which you only need to take a gram or two of extract, versus 7-8 g of brown gunk, then this is how to do it! The purity should help eliminate some of the nausea and should also be absorbed very quickly by the system.


EDIT:  If anyone has an excess of bark and a good camera, I could perform this extraction again, photographing each step.  I am one to prefer all the alkaloids in the TA, however, purifying all the alkaloids to utmost purity before taking them, would be highly desired, as the plant material makes it much harder to be sure exactly what the dose one takes is.  Removing the other alkaloids and making pure ibogaine HCl is possible using this tek, but also seems to be wasteful of all the other synergistic alkaloids that help present the plant in it's full "spirit" form, I believe.  This is only my esoteric opinion, though, and I have no scientific proof that the added alkaloids give more of the "plant spirit", when looking from a purely scientific standpoint.
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga - (Now w/pics)
Post by: Nganga Nobunoni on January 24, 2010, 08:48:51 AM
No matter of how pure your extract is it shall no prevent nausia'

The nausia is caused by seretonin flooding the motion centres of your back brain'

It is a psychological things and has no thing to do with your stomach per se'

It is the brains way of saying' "I have had enough of this"

Still awaiting your report at kicking the bitch' you done lots of extraction work but no work on yourself!!

All the Best'

Nobu +
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga - (Now w/pics)
Post by: GratefulDad on January 24, 2010, 10:39:18 AM
Haha! Thanks Nobunoni, but when you say I have done no work on myself, I would beg to differ. ;)  Even the low dose of iboga I had taken has indeed helped me work on myself more than just battling my opiate addiction.  It has shown me a lot more than I had wished to use it for, even though only got so much on board. 

Instead of taking the occasional boost during my maintenance (opiate maintenance), on "rough" days, I have instead reduced my dose of 20g of pod powder a day, down to my last day, two days ago, of only 8.4 g.  On top of that I have switched to an even shorter acting, easier to measure dose of morphine sulfate.  And rather than the 10% morphine alkaloid profile of the pods, or roughly 80 mgs of morphine, plus codeine and other poppy alkaloids (of unknown %'s), I have narrowed it down to 45-60 mgs of morphine sulfate only, per day.  I am currently reducing that morphine dose daily, and am trying to get down to 15, maybe 30 mgs of morphine per day, then will undergo a treatment again. 

My sitter has started back to work, and caring for a family of five has taken priority to my detox, as I need to be sure they are all cared for before I take another 3 day journey.  But in the meantime, my mind is preparing, my body is preparing, and I am already beginning to develop a better routine and better outlook for a clean healthy life.  Thanks, though, Nobunoni, and Calaquendi, and all the rest of you who are watching and caring about my well being.  I love you all and bless you all!!

Respectfully,

GD
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga - (Now w/pics)
Post by: Nganga Nobunoni on January 24, 2010, 11:50:49 AM
Respectfuly bro!

It no matter if you are using 10mg morphine or 700-3000mg a day' Iboga alks shall wipe it out!

All the Best'

Bliss!

Nobu +
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga - (Now w/pics)
Post by: Eon T McKnight on January 31, 2010, 10:17:33 PM
Dear GratefulDad,

Fist, allow me to give a belated "Welcome!" to the Forum.  Other issues have prevented me from spending much time here recently.  Your extraction teks are totalamente fantastico!

To Mr. Dad and you other Ibonauts:

I am seeking criticism on the following extraction tek.  (This is my first time, please be gentle.) (If you can't be gentle, please try to keep the bruises to where they won't show.)   ;)

(1)
Finely powder 40g root bark (RB) and put in 1L beaker.  Prepare 500ml solution of HCl w/ pH = 4.

(2)
Add 200ml of HCl solution to RB and agitate several times over 8 hours minimum.

(3)
Measure pH.

If pH >= 5, add 50ml HCl solution.  Agitate periodically for 1 hour minimum.  Check pH.  If pH >= 5, repeat.

else

If pH <5, add volume of 95% ethanol (EtOH) equal to 30% of liquid added previously.  Agitate.  Let stand until RB settles and solution above is clear.

(4)  Decant through a filter, leaving most of RB in beaker.  Add 2:1 solution of H2O and EtOH equal to what was decanted.  Agitate periodically for at least 1 hour.  Let stand until RB settles.

Repeat this step at least once (depends on compactness of RB layer).

(5)
Decant and filter, allowing most solvent to drain from RB.  Combine liquid.  Filter once more, if necessary.  Prepare steam bath (crock pot) w/ Pyrex pie plate above and fan.  Strip off liquid and collect TA residue.  Done.

Why add the EtOH?

~~  It makes the solution easier to decant and faster filtering.
~~  The solution will strip faster at a lower temperature.
~~  The 2:1 ratio is still a good solvent for the HCls.

Why HCl instead of vinegar?

~~  Better pharmacodynamics.

One concern that I have is that the weak HCl solution will not be sufficient to solubilize the alks and create hydrochlorides.  On the other hand, I want to keep the pH as close to 7 as possible to improve the final product.  Other experience has led me to shoot for a pH ~ 4 in general  --  not hygroscopic, easy on sensitive tissues, low enough to get all the alks.

Sincere THANKS for you help!    ~eon

PS  --  Does anyone know if I can charcoal the H2O/EtOH mix before stripping?  ~e
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga - (Now w/pics)
Post by: harveyplex on February 02, 2010, 12:18:26 AM
huh ?
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga - (Now w/pics)
Post by: Nganga Nobunoni on February 09, 2010, 09:41:07 PM
huh? hehehe

Keep Things Simple.:)

Bliss!

Nobu +
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga - (Now w/pics)
Post by: GratefulDad on February 14, 2010, 12:13:49 AM
The pKa of ibogaine is 8.1.  This would mean that a pH of 2 points above or below would cause 99% of the ibogaine to be in either it's acidic salt form or it's freebase form, which is apparently an unstable oil.  So a water acidified with a pH of 6.1 should ionize 99% of the ibogaine to form ibogaine HCl.  Now when pulling the alkaloids from a bark, however, a lower acidity will pull more impurities, but may also do so faster, and I am not sure of the pKa's of the other alkaloids.  Also, in Chris Jenks' article, I believe he talks about ibogaine's instability in solvents, of which I believe water was the most stable.  It begins to break down in acetone very fast, and I forget what comes in between.
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga - (Now w/pics)
Post by: Nganga Nobunoni on February 14, 2010, 02:18:27 AM
Water' Methanol' ethanol' acetone'(Ibogaine oxidises quickly in acetone) Napths'(of which destroy the moles quite quickly)

Bliss'

Nobu +

Unless in an acid salt state' Ibogaine is practicaly insoluble in water'
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga - (Now w/pics)
Post by: GratefulDad on February 14, 2010, 02:32:52 AM
Yep, thanks Nobu!  I was just coming back to add, but you got it for me. :)

GD
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga - (Now w/pics)
Post by: GratefulDad on February 21, 2010, 10:15:43 PM
I have posted the whole extraction a couple times, but I will add it in it's entirety again, with some added notes on purification from an old email from Howard Lotsof at the end.

It also contains even better measurements than the original tek I posted, when it comes to using the acetone and hydrochloric (aka muriatic) acid.

The extra purity for pure ibogaine HCl, may need a couple more supplies, but IMHO  , is not needed, unless someone just really wants to be sure and use 98%+ pure ibogaine HCl.

So here it is again:

Okay, new UPDATED tek with added tips:

The Extraction:

What you need: Plain white distilled vinegar, a stainless steel, ceramic, HDPE 2, or non-reactive container, janitorial strength (10%+) non-sudsy ammonia, distilled water, a funnel, coffee filters, old t-shirt, and the iboga bark.

A clear, non-reactive container for performing the extraction helps a lot, when watching the reactions, BTW.

Optional for added purity: Acetone, muriatic acid (28-36% HCl), and Everclear  (95% pure ethanol), maybe baked epsom salts aka magnesium sulfate (not 100% necessary).

1: Take the bark, and make sure it's as fine of a powder as possible.

2: Add enough vinegar to thoroughly cover the bark. A good measurement for the vinegar is about 5 times the amount (volume) of vinegar to the weight of bark.

In this instance 40g of bark times 5 would be about 200 mls of vinegar per soak. One may need slightly more in the first couple extractions to thoroughly cover the bark, and excess can be used safely, however it will lengthen the time of filtering later, so try and keep the volumes minimal.

3: The bark can be stirred occasionally, and left to sit for at least one hour.

Adding heat makes the bark harder to filter, and isn't necessary.

4: After an hour has passed, one needs to filter the bark from the vinegar with a cloth t-shirt. Squeeze out the bark to gather all the vinegar and save this.

The bark is then returned to the container for another soak. This should be done 4 times to be sure to get out all the alkaloids. (One can taste the bark when dried to see if any bitterness remains, however, after 4 soaks, it seemed to remove nearly all the bitterness from the bark for me.)

5: While letting the bark soak again, as in the previous steps, filter the collected vinegar through coffee filters.

This can take a long time to filter, since the coffee filters clog easily, and may need to be replaced often. Have patience though. If you can leave it sitting in the funnel, with a filter, the juice will eventually pass through. This filtering isn't 100% necessary but it will help remove all the finest plant particles from the solution, so the initial extraction will come out cleaner, so it's a good idea, IMO.

6: Once all the vinegar has been collected and filtered through a coffee filter, you have two options.

The first would be to evaporate the vinegar a bit, by using low heat and a fan. Under boiling (do not boil!) is fine to reduce the vinegar, and will make it easier to deal with less liquid. A fan blowing over a heater vent worked well for me. You don't want to evaporate it to thickness, though, just enough to make it easy to work with in a smaller container.

The second option is to skip the evaporation and proceed directly to the next step, which can save time.

7: Once you have all your vinegar collected, and evaporated a good bit, if you choose, you are ready to add the ammonia. You can slowly pour ammonia into the vinegar, to make it basic. pH  papers/pens aren't needed, but if used, just make sure the pH  is above 10.1. Ibogaine's pKa is 8.1. (from sources on the internet)

As you add the ammonia, the solution will heat slightly, and you will see cloudy precipitate forming. You can add more ammonia, to be sure, as too much won't hurt, it will just add to the amount of solution that needs to be filtered, which can take awhile.

8: Now, if left to settle (can take a few hours), the precipitate (freebase total alkaloids) will sink to the bottom of the container. The majority of the clear solution at the top can be siphoned off, and filtered to be sure no precipitate is in it.

If it looks clear (tea colored, still), not cloudy though, all the precipitate should have sunken to the bottom. By removing a large portion of the upper clear (tea colored) water, this will allow you to have much less solution to filter out your alkaloids.

You can save everything you siphoned off and add more ammonia later, to be sure you got out all the freebase alkaloids, but it didn't seem to make any difference for me.

9: Now you can filter the muddy, alkaloid containing solution through coffee filters.

Filtering this can take a good bit as the precipitate begins to clog the filter, but again, be patient, as the solution will eventually pass through the filter completely. This may take overnight, so don't worry if it takes a long time. Once you have filtered the solution, you can set aside the clear tea colored water for later, to add more ammonia, just to be sure you collected all the precipitate.

10: You should now have a coffee filter with all the brown freebase precipitate stuck to it. You should then add a liberal amount of distilled water to the filter in the funnel. You will THOROUGHLY rinse the precipitate with the distilled water to wash away any extra impurities (ammonium acetate).

Again, waiting for the water to pass through the alkaloid coated coffee filter may take awhile, so just have patience.

11: This precipitate can then be placed in front of a fan with a warm air current, away from UV light, and left to dry.

This is now your crude (estimated from Chris' notes at 40-50% pure) freebase total alkaloid extract. This can be capped when dry and used as is, and should be much cleaner than the simple vinegar extraction. However, for those that want it more pure, there are two options.

First option:

1: Take the filter with the dried crusty precipitate and break up the precipitate to a fine powder. You can use the same filter, or take a new one and place it in a funnel that is plugged (I use a two liter bottle with the bottom cut off for a funnel, so capping the opening can seal it, but a finger may be used). Add the crushed precipitate to the plugged funnel and saturate it with vinegar to dissolve as much as possible.

2: Let the vinegar sit in the filter with the precipitate, maybe stir it around a bit in the filter, then let it drain through, and save the vinegar.

Be careful not to poke a hole in the filter while stirring/agitating.

3: You can repeat with fresh vinegar another time, and collect all the vinegar.

4: Add ammonia to the vinegar again, to precipitate the alkaloids, which should be even cleaner this time.

5: Re-filter out all the alkaloids, rinse thoroughly with distilled water, and let dry as above.

This can now be used as is and should be even cleaner.


Second (more involved) option, for much more pure TA:

Okay so you have your brown precipitate in your coffee filter, now dried up, from the first portion of the extraction.

1: You now, take your acetone and add 15-18 mls of acetone per gram of freebase TA extract (brown freebase powder), and soak freebase in the filter with it. You can stir around the precipitate in the filter (again be careful not to poke a hole in it), and wash it two or three times with the SAME acetone. Do not go over 18 mls per gram of brown TA freebase, but be sure to soak as much color from the solid as possible. The filter should contain any bark crud, and any other impurities, when finished.

This will remove the alkaloids from the solid filtrand (insoluble plant gunk that's left in the filter), since the freebase is soluble in acetone. Chris Jenks says about 50-60% of the crud is left behind as insoluble plant material.

2: Take your muriatic acid (hydrogen chloride in a water solution, aka hydrochloric acid in solution), and add it very slowly, to the acetone. You must do this drop wise, and watch as the precipitate forms. (One milliliter for each six grams of TA) is added in small portions, slowly, until the precipitation of the solid begins.

If you own a pH  tester, when the acetone is at pH  6.1, 99% of the ibogaine should be converted to the HCl salt form, and precipitate out, or be caught in the tiny amount of water that the HCl is mixed with (with 1 ml of muriatic acid, the water is negligible). This can be filtered out, and the tiny bit of water separated, and left to evaporate to be sure to recover all the iboga alkaloid HCl salts (wasn't necessary for me).

Adding too much acid with water can start to redissolve the iboga TA HCl. You can add a few drops at a time, and watch as the precipitate forms. When it stops forming, you can place this into the fridge, to chill for a few hours (overnight may be better), before filtering, and this will increase the yield.

3: Filter out the iboga PTA HCl.

This is nearly pure TA HCl, but there may be a bit left in the acetone, and other residual alkaloids will also be in the acetone. You can evaporate some of the acetone with a fan and low heat (no flames please), then remove any acidic water from the acetone (drying with baked epsom salts, aka magnesium sulfate, then filtering them out can be done but doesn't increase the yield much), and let it evaporate to collect anything there. Then treat the reduced acetone with the muriatic acid again (a drop or two), and harvest any more crystals of iboga PTA HCl that precipitate. Filter it out as well and add it to the first precipitate.

Another option would be to gas HCl acid though the acetone to precipitate the iboga PTA HCl crystals, but this can be covered later, if anyone is really interested. I haven't tried this with ibogaine HCl, but am pretty sure it'd work fine, although it is more difficult and requires a few more supplies.

4: If you would like pure ibogaine HCl, without the other alkaloids, you can take the iboga TA HCl crystals, and dissolve it in boiling ethanol.

The boiling ethanol should be added drop wise, just until all the ibogaine HCl has dissolved.

5: This ethanol solution is then left to cool in the fridge and the ibogaine will recrystallize.

This will make the ibogaine HCl form much more pure crystals and can remove some of the ibogamine/ibogaline if still present in the precipitate.

It is not necessary unless going for 98%+ purity, and repeated recrystallization can yield very pure ibogaine HCl, but can cost a bit of yield. The ibogaline and ibogamine have very similar action as ibogaine and may also provide similar effects, so are fine for using for a session.

(There are more added notes below for those chemistry nuts that want PURE ibogaine HCl.)

When this is dry, it is ready to take.

6: For those who want to recover all the alkaloids, so they can take a complete total alkaloid extract (or Purified Total Active Alkaloid extract, aka PTAA) of high purity, they should take the acetone that they salted/precipitated out the ibogaine HCl, and evaporate it in front of a fan with warm air current.

The resulting leftover alkaloids will be an unstable oil.

7: Dissolve this oil in distilled water.

8: Add ammonia to this water with the oil dissolved into it.

You will again see the freebase residual alkaloids precipitate out of the water/ammonia solution.

9: Filter out the freebase alkaloids, and rinse again thoroughly with distilled water.

10: Let the freebase residual alkaloids dry completely.

You can then add your freebase residual alkaloids to your PTA HCls, and capsulize it. Freebases will be converted to the HCl salts in your stomach, so turning them into the HCl salt before ingesting is probably unnecessary.

This Purified Total Active Alkaloid extract, or PTAA, should be considered very pure (as is the PTA, minus a few other active alkaloids), and a 15-20 mg/kg dose of this (mainly for addiction treatment at this level) is just as powerful, if not more so, as the pure ibogaine HCl, so estimate your dosage with this extract accordingly. This is powerful medicine and going higher than 25 mg/kg could cause complications, so don't be a hero. This also lasts in the system for months, so it's recommended not to take another flood dose within 60-90 days minimum, to be safe.

This is optional and has not been tried by myself, so if Chris or anyone out there thinks there are any updates, more details, or improvements, please feel free to add them, as the final purification to pure ibogaine HCl, was not my goal, just a much more pure TA.

Further purification notes, for those wanting pure ibogaine HCl, without the added alkaloids, from here: http://www.puzzlepiece.org/ibogaine/032899.html

Purification of ibogaine from the total alkaloids.

The total alkaloids from the extraction step is dissolved in ethyl acetate
(minimum) and treated with norite (measurements anyone?), filtered and evaporated to dryness. The residue is dissolved in hot ethanol. After chilling for two or three days, the crude ibogaine is filtered and the filtrate is evaporated to half volume, chilled for one day and a second crop of ibogaine is collected.

The crude ibogaine is recrystallized from ethanol. This product is dissolved in toluene and filtered through three times its weight of neutral alumina(activity 1), and the column washed with toluene. Evaporation of the solvent crystallization of the residue from ethanol yields a pure sample of ibogaine.

Ibogaine hydrochloride

To a stirred solution of ibogaine in minimum acetone is added aqueous HCl
(1:1) dropwise (excess). The crystalline ibogaine hydrochloride separates
immediately. The product is filtered and washed with acetone. It is
recrystallized from ethanol yielding a white salt.

Extra tips:

Norite: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Norite

Ethyl Acetate: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethyl_acetate

Also, this further purification requires a chromatography column, neutral alumina to pack the column, and toluene, so it may be a bit more difficult for the kitchen chemist without the proper tools.. It also lacks measurements, and details, so I'd need to play around to find them myself.

Honestly, the added purification is not really needed, especially if one only wants a Purified TA or PTAA. It is only necessary if 98%+ pure ibogaine HCl is desired.

Hope this has everything anyone needs, but I can help out if anyone has any questions, up to the further purification, as I don't have a chromatography column, and didn't have enough bark to waste any of the extra alkaloids from the root bark.

I haven't tried to extract pure ibogaine HCl since the PTA/PTAA that comes out, looks plenty clean, removes all the plant material, makes the dosage easy to calculate, and may be easier on sensitive stomachs, although nausea is still common with even the pure alkaloids.

I have read that the pure ibogaine HCl is even more gentle on the stomach, but haven't had the experience myself, so I can't give a personal account.

If any experts out there have any critiques for the updated tek, please feel free to add whatever you can. Big thanks to Chris Jenks!! Also, thanks to panoramix over at the DMT-Nexus.com for helping add some measurements for the purification.

I've tried to make this as clear and detailed as possible, and watching Chris' presentation from the ibogaine conference can help with pictures, for those who are visual learners..

http://www.ustream.tv/recorded/4730969 (This one has the extraction by Chris Jenks, with pictures and his description. He starts 1:00:00 in, but plenty of good info before hand.)

Best of luck to everyone, and please use this with utmost respect and responsibility, as we don't need to lose ANYONE (else) with this medicine!

Okay, that is the final draft as of now. I hope that incorporates any of the things that Chris brought up, and I hope it is more clear in each step with better terminology. I will explain later how to make a little contraption to bubble HCl gas through the acetone to precipitate the iboga alkaloid HCl's without having any water, which might improve purity and yield from the start, but this will be when I can get around to finding more time to type it up in a decent manner.
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga - (Now w/pics)
Post by: GratefulDad on February 27, 2010, 06:04:53 PM
BTW, freebase TA is total alkaloids (actually the ibogaine, ibogaline, ibogamine and residual alkaloids), PTA is purified total alkaloids (ibogaine, ibogaline, ibogamine in HCl salts), PTAA is purified total active alkaloids (all active alkaloids from tabernanthe iboga including, but not limited to, ibogaine, ibogaline, ibogamine, tabernanthine, in HCl salt and freebase mix).
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga - (Now w/pics)
Post by: Calaquendi on February 27, 2010, 10:52:10 PM
Thanks for taking the time put this all here bro, this valuable information. Glad to have it.

Good clarifications on the different extracts, I like that.  ;D
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga - (Now w/pics)
Post by: GratefulDad on March 02, 2010, 05:06:23 AM
I was just thinking (which is what happens, when replying/sending, so I make edits and add more stuff, lol) that maybe the added oily freebase alkaloids, that won't precipitate from the acetone could be dissolved in some vinegar or some vinegar and water, then evaporated to make acetic acid salts (although these are probably gonna be hygroscopic, if that works). One could try carbonic acid, citric acid, fumaric acid, tartaric acid, phosphoric, whatever one has access too, and see if any of those work to salt out those added alkaloids.

Could just take some of that freebase oil, split it up evenly each in a separate small amount of distilled water, then add each acid (pH  maybe 4 or 5 in case any have real low pKa's) and evaporate the water. Maybe one of the concentrated acids could be used to salt them from the acetone even. See if any of them form crystals or a nice solid.

SWIM'd give it a shot if the bark wasn't so expensive, but for anyone thinking about extracting kilos, it might make an even better, full alkaloid TA, in which all the alkaloids are more stable, and very pure, with all the active alkaloids of iboga present, and in a salt form. Wouldn't that be awesome? There are a lot of different acids one could try.

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My reasoning:

Trichocereus bridgesii is Achuma cactus, with the most extra alkaloids of any Trichocereus (just under Peyote  aka Lophphora williamsi).

When extracting Trichocereus bridgesii, made basic with calcium hydroxide  (plus a tiny bit of water to make it a paste), with d-limonene (orange oil and NP  solvent), one first extracts the paste with the d-limonene and filters it out, then uses acetic acid to pull out the Mescaline , then can use some carbonic and citric acid mix, all of which you can find in the grocery store, to pull out the added alkaloids, it makes a TA achuma or bridgesii extract.

This has many more effects, including two mild MAOIs contained in the cactus, which intensify the effects of the Mescaline . By making the TA, you get much more of the full alkaloid profile of the cactus making it a more powerful, slightly different experience.

Some people prefer pure Mescaline  HCl, while some prefer the full alkaloid profile of the bridgesii (just like our iboganaut friends!). Either person can be happy by either extracting and recrystallizing the Mescaline  HCl one way, or they can use another way with several different acids to make an extract of the various alkaloid salts of the cactus.

Some acids form nice crystals of each type of alkaloid, just got to figure out which one works with each alkaloid..

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Just another thought for the chemistry people out there..

Whaddya, think?
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga - (Now w/pics)
Post by: x on March 02, 2010, 06:19:32 AM
I am rather in awe of what you've accomplished, and so excited you are willing to take the time to make it clear for others. Gratitude!
There is such momentum building in and around Iboga, at least here in the states, maybe everywhere. Your work  is a part of that!!!
:D
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga - (Now w/pics)
Post by: GratefulDad on March 02, 2010, 07:00:20 AM
Well, it's really Chris Jenks' work, with a few notes I picked up elsewhere.  I just read it, and wrote it in regular people terms.  Although some is a bit more advanced organic chemistry, I tried to make it at as understandable as possible, and let me tell you, that freebase TA alone, takes out so much gunk, that is makes probably a 40-50% TA..  The acetone and HCl steps are bonus if you really want some nice pretty tan crystally powder, but not really 100% necessary, because we have HCl in our stomach that should convert all the alkaloids very quickly.  A gram or two of plant material is nothing like taking 10 grams from an acetic acid extract or trying to munch down 30 grams of wood.  Much respect to those who can, but in withdrawal I have trouble munching anything, let alone some nasty, bitter tree bark..

Much thanks for the kind compliments. 

Love and light!
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga - (Now w/pics)
Post by: Calaquendi on March 02, 2010, 10:49:08 PM
SWIM'd give it a shot if the bark wasn't so expensive, but for anyone thinking about extracting kilos, it might make an even better, full alkaloid TA, in which all the alkaloids are more stable, and very pure, with all the active alkaloids of iboga present, and in a salt form. Wouldn't that be awesome? There are a lot of different acids one could try
Whaddya, think?

Now that's what I'm talking about...that kind of an extract would be like having your cake and eating it too..
Title: Chris Jenks Iboga alkaloid extraction
Post by: GratefulDad on March 18, 2010, 11:45:51 PM
Chris Jenks video on how he does the extraction, from youtube..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4W-GUEHDgFw
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga - (Now w/pics)
Post by: Eon T McKnight on March 19, 2010, 11:23:57 AM
Good one, Dad!  I must say you deserve every penny of the generous salary that Mr. Quendi is paying you.  In fact, I am hereby suggesting that he doubles it!   :D

Thanks!

~eon
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga - (Now w/pics)
Post by: GratefulDad on March 19, 2010, 11:56:04 AM
Yeah, I'll be rich soon, if he doubles it!  LOL  So umm, what's he payin you, mister moderator?
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga - (Now w/pics)
Post by: Eon T McKnight on March 19, 2010, 12:06:25 PM
Gee, I'm sorry, Dad.  Mr. Quendi made me sign a Non-Disclosure Agreement when he generously offered me the job.  I can tell you this, though, it's at least half as much as he is paying you...   ;)

~e
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga - (Now w/pics)
Post by: Calaquendi on March 19, 2010, 02:54:11 PM
Indeed, I am so pleased with each of you - I have decided that you should give each other a bonus. But don't tell one another exact figures...fiscal incongruities tend to complicate relationships... (and shit)
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga - (Now w/pics)
Post by: Eon T McKnight on March 19, 2010, 08:07:14 PM
That is so very kind of you, Cal!

I'm just wondering what Dad and I are going to do in our new Caribbean vacation homes  --  you know, the ones we're going to buy with our next paychecks...

~e
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga - (Now w/pics)
Post by: Bancopuma on September 13, 2012, 05:22:12 AM
This is an incredibly simple and effective method; iboga must be one of the easiest ethnobotanicals to extract from in some ways.

Just to say, for my last flood experience shared with my sister, I was soaking 44g of powdered root bark in vinegar for around five days with occasional shaking on the recommendation of harveyplex, well after this time the vinegar was black which one would hope in part was due to a high concentration of alkaloids (3g of powdered root bark was saved for consumption as is per person, to get the essence of the whole plant in there). For this stage I was quite liberal with the vinegar, using at least 400ml. I poured off and filtered the vinegar from this first pull, and unfortunately shortly after this, a tired family member accidently threw the vast majority of the iboga down the sink. I managed to save maybe a quarter of it, which I heated with the double boiler, extracted, soaked overnight, extracted, and repeated this each once more. The vinegar was much clearer after the initial long soak, and I think it very likely the vast bulk of the alkaloids are pulled after that first long soak.

Despite much of the iboga being lost after this first soak, and the small amount of TA obtained, a dose equivalent to 25g of this root bark was found to be STRONGER than my last flood experience, also with 25g (of a different batch however), when the long soak and this method were followed to completion. Again, this TA was found to be deep while being much smoother on the body than the root bark, the ataxia and dizziness were much less pronounced and it was easier to move around and go to the toilet. Personally, for me now, TA is the only way to flood.

So I think a long soak to begin with using a larger quantity of vinegar then one would use for subsequent alkaloid pulls may be advantageous. Thanks HP for the recommendation!  :)
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga - (Now w/pics)
Post by: harveyplex on October 10, 2012, 07:49:26 PM
you bet brother !!!
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga - (Now w/pics)
Post by: GratefulDad on December 14, 2012, 02:49:55 PM
From Chris Jenks, via ibogaine.mindvox.com email list..

Quote
I wanted to make sure to put the latest refinements into a procedure to prevent, if possible, any loss of ibogaine:

  Powder the root or root bark and weigh one kilogram of it into two 20 Liter plastic buckets, each with 500 grams. To the first bucket add 2.5 Liters of water and 20 mL of concentrated HCl and stir occasionally for one hour. Filter this mixture through a new pillow case into the second bucket and add the same amounts of water and acid again to the first bucket. After another hour of occasional stirring of both buckets, filter the extract from the second bucket through the pillow case into a third bucket, filter the mixture in the first bucket into the second bucket, and add fresh water and acid to the first bucket. The extract in the third bucket is basified using 106 mL of 10% sodium hydroxide solution and filtered through large, pre-weighed coffee filter paper. The same sequence for the two buckets of root is repeated until water and acid have been added to the first bucket nine times. The extract from the first bucket is used to extract the contents of the second one last time, and then this extract is filtered, made basic and filtered like the previous eight. The coffee filter papers are rinsed with water and laid on dry towels in streams of warm air to dry. The dried TA is weighed, ground and optionally sifted and reground.

  If new pillow cases were used, no further processing of the TA should be necessary since the fabric will not have degraded from exposure to the HCl. Otherwise, to make "super TA" which lacks root pulp, the TA can be redissolved in acid, filtered and precipitated with base. To do this, place 50 grams of powdered TA and a stir bar into a 1 Liter Erlenmeyer flask and add 400 mL of water and 4 mL of concentrated HCl. Stir the flask for an hour and filter the mixture through paper. Return the solid from the filter to the flask and add the same amounts of water and acid a second and third time, stirring and filtering in between. Basify the combined filtrates with 63 mL of 10% sodium hydroxide solution and filter, rinse and dry the precipitated super TA through pre-weighed laboratory filter paper. This super TA should have nearly the potency of PTA HCl.

  To prepare PTA HCl, place 50 grams of TA into a funnel with a pre-weighed filter paper. Extract the TA with 750 mL of acetone, stirring occasionally. Put the covered flask of filtrate in the refrigerator and place the drained filter in a stream of warm air until all the smell of acetone is gone and the paper loses no further weight, and determine the weight lost by the TA due to extraction. Multiply this weight loss in grams by 3/7 to determine the number of milliliters of concentrated HCl to add to the filtrate. Add this with stirring over several minutes dropwise. If a fluffy material separates during this addition process (an oily, non-solid precipitate is suspected to be caused by the presence of root pulp in the TA or a poor quality of root material), stop the stirring after half of the planned acid has been added, let the fluff settle and decant the solution from the fluff. Rinse the fluff with 50 mL of fresh acetone and add this to the solution before proceeding with the acid addition. Once all the acid has been added, or the mixture has become acidic, let the flask sit in the refrigerator overnight before filtering and drying the PTA HCl on pre-weighed laboratory filter paper. Any solid which deposits on the sides of the flask can be most effectively removed by scraping it with a spoon into a small amount of fresh acetone and rinsed into the wet PTA HCl filter before drying.

  The acetone filtrate that the PTA HCl was removed from is placed in a 2
L round bottom flask with a stir bar and distilled until about 10% of the
original volume is left. The remaining mixture is poured into a glass
casserole dish and set outside in a stream of warm air until all the
acetone has evaporated, leaving a non-mobile brown oil. This dark, syrupy
residue is dissolved in 500 mL of water from both the distillation flask
and the casserole dish and filtered through laboratory filter paper. The
filtered solution is then made basic with 50 mL of 30% ammonia, mixed
thoroughly, and filtered through pre-weighed laboratory filter paper. The
light yellow solid dries into light chalky pieces which can be stored
indefinitely in the freezer. The acetone distillate is redistilled with
stirring from 5 grams of sodium hydroxide pellets to remove traces of
hydrochloric acid, giving wet acetone suitable for cleaning purposes.

  ** DISCLAIMER **

  NONE OF THE ABOVE PROCEDURE IS INTENDED FOR IMPLEMENTATION IN ANY COUNTRY WHERE ISOLATION OF IBOGAINE IS CONSIDERED TO BE A "CRIME".

Perhaps a pillow case with a very high thread count would be a better filter, and brand new, as well..
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga - (Now w/pics)
Post by: frequentChi on November 03, 2013, 02:49:49 PM
, I folowed the directions to the T and after the vineger extractions when It dried I only had 2 gr. Of Ta to work with the aceton. So I followed your measurment advice and didnt add more then 18 mls of acetone per gr of ta and there was barely anything at the bottom of the jar. I still added the muriatic but its not looking good. I think I just waisted 40 gr of camaroony bark and I have 80 gr left to figure out my life saving flood. I could really use some help. Thank you
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga - (Now w/pics)
Post by: GratefulDad on August 14, 2015, 08:33:46 AM
I am sorry I didn't see this but you could just use the TA and skip the acetone part to be safe and not lose anything..
Title: Re: Total-Alkaloid Extract of T.iboga - (Now w/pics)
Post by: EternalReturn on November 10, 2016, 09:15:48 AM
Is it OK if I will use 70% of acetic acid? Or it is better to lessen it to 7%?